Art of making shoes and shoe resulting therefrom



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W. H. GOODYEAR ART OF' MAKING SHOES AND SHOE RESULTING THEREFROM l Filed March 6, 1924 Ze j IAM HARRY GOODYEAR, OE CARLISLE, PENNSYLVANIA, ASS'IGNOE, To Goonl YEAR SHOE co.,v OE CARLISLE, 1= ENNSYLVANIA,v a CORPORATION OE PENNSYL- VARIA.

ART OEMAKING SHOES AND. SHOE RESULTING i'.rHEREEaOM.

Application ined March e, 1924. serial No. 657,212.

To all. whom it. may concern.'

Be it known that V, WILLIAM H. Goon- YEAP., a citizen of the United States, residing at Carlisle, county of Cumberland, State of Pennsylvania, have invented a certain new and useful Art of Making Shoes and Shoes Resulting Therefrom, of which the following is a specification.

This inventionpertains to the art of making shoes and to the product resulting therefrom, the object being to produce an article presenting the appearance and possessing the characteristics of a welt shoe capable of economical manufacture by a simple and easily performed mode of procedure, and wherein the upper and the welt are united with an insole so as to remain in a permanently connected condition whereby the shoe may be repaired by replacing the outsole without impairing the external appearance of the article.

A salient part of the invention is an insole ychanneled on one face thereof in a direction extending toward the edge, but terminating an appreciable distance from said edge, in a manner to leave said edge intact or unbroken, and to produce on said face a lip or feather, whereby the margin of the upper and an inner marginal part of a welt are adapted to be permanently attached to said lip or feather by a stapling, sewing, or an analogous fastening, Operation.

In the production of shoes in accordance with this invention, a channeled insole of the specified character is imposed upon a last with the channeled face uppermost. An upper is lasted Vfor the marginal part thereof to overlap the lip or feather of said insole, whereupon a welt. is assembled and positioned in such relation to the insole that the lip or feather with the upper and the welt are adapted to be united 1n permanent relation each to the other by a row of fasteners according to the now well known procedure in the shoe making industry, and with the aid afforded by the metal fastening Or stapling machine. The upper and the welt are, furthermore, secured by a seam extending outside of or around the row of metal fasteners or staples, leaving the free edge of the Welt outstanding with reference to the edge of the shoe, whereupon an outsole isimposed upon the insole and the welt,

welt are united separately lfrom the staples.l Cther functions and advantages of the in.

volition will appear from the following descriptlon, taklng 1n connection With the accompanylng drawings, wherein- Figure l 1s a sectional elevation with the insole tacked upon a last, the upper, welt and outsole being omitted. v Figure 2 is a similar view illustrating the upper and thewelt attached by the staplingoperation to the lip of the insole.

Figure 3 is a view similar to Figure 2, but with the addition of the seam by which the upper and Welt are stitched together beyond the continuous edge of the insole. l

Figure 4 is a plan of the lasted upper, the welt and the insole illustrating the row of fasteners and the seam exterior to such row. Figure 5 is a sectional view of the shoe of Figures 3 and 4 with the outsole stitched to the welt. Y A is an insole imposed upon a last B and fastened temporarily thereto, as usual, by lasting tacks a. The insole is composed of material suitable for the purpose, relatively thin leather being preferred. According to this invention, the insole is channeled by the formation in the ,under face thereof of a channel C, the same being inclined to the plane or face of the insole and extending continuously with respect to the fore part, shank and heel. Said channel C may be said to extend toward the Outer edge if the insole, beginning on a line-a suitable distance inwardly from said edge, but it is to be noted that said channel docs not extend to and through the edge of said insole, the effect of which is to leave said edge unbroken and continuous. The formation of the channel produces a lip or'feather C' unitary with the insole and having a free edge whereby the anvil of a stapling may i chine is adapted to enter the channel and to offer a solid surface below the free edge of the lip for clenching the staples in the operation of said staplin machine. p

D is an upper laste by kthe usual procedure' relatively to the last B vand to the insole, the edge d of said upper being lasted `of the into overlapping relation to the feather or lip C' of said insole, see Figures 2, 3, and 5.

E is a welt composed as usual of leather, uired thickness and width and produced so that it will conform to the shoe. Said welt is positioned for the inner part thereof to overlap thc lasted edge l of the upper, whereas t e outer part of said welt protrudes 4for an appreciable distance beyond the uper.

'llhe last l edge portion d of the upper and the inner portion of the welt are permanently fastened to the lip or feather C of the insole by a row of met-al fasteners, such as staples l?, which pass through the welt, the lasted edge of the upper, and the lip or feather, and which staples are clenched against the inner face of said li or feather so as to have said clenched en s of the staples lie within, and be encased by, the channel of said insole, thus precluding the possibility of injury to the foot of the wearer by reason of the fact that said staples do not extend through the insole, the unbroken top face and edge of which protect the foot from coming into contact with said staples or row of metal fasteners.

`With the upper in a lasted condition, and with the welt and the insole permanently fastened to the upper, the last B is dislodged from the upper, whereupon the upper and the welt are stitched directly together by a seam G which extends throught the upper and the welt on a line exteriorly of the staples l?, said seam bein exterior also to the unbroken edge of tie insole A, see Figures 3 and 5.

An outsole ll-ll composed of leather of the required dimensions, shape and thickness, is imposed upon the insole and the welt, see )Figure 5, said outsole covering the insole and closing the channel in the upper face part thereof. Said outsole is united to the welt independently of the union aorded by the staples F which fasten the welt and the upper to the insole, and independently, also, of the seam G by which the upper and the welt are directly fastened together, such attachment of the outsole to the welt being attained by a seam k which passes through the outsole and the welt on a line exteriorly to the tu G between the welt and the upper.

l lln practicing my process, ll proceed as folows:-

The insole is channeled to produce in the under face through the feather C', and said insole is imposed upon a last, with the smooth non-channeled face of said insole in contact with the last, the usual lasting tacks a being driven through the insole and into the last. 'lhe upper is lasted for its edge d to overlap the feather of the insole, and the Welt having been made ready, said welt is positioned in lapping relation to the lasted intese@ edge of the upper, whereupon the shoe is staplcd by the now familiar metal stapling machine the anvil of which occupies the channel C, whereupon the stapling machine is operated and the shoe manipulated with the result that the row of staples l? are applied to effect the permanent union of the welt, the upper and the feather of the insole with the clenched ends (which are more or less rough, uneven and jagged) housed within the channel C of said insole. W' ith the last dislodged, the upper and the welt are united by the seam G which does not pass through the continuous edge of the insole, and thereupon the outsole is assembled by imposing it upon the insole and the welt, and finally the outsole and the welt are stitched by the seam h which does not pass through the upper and which is outside of the seam G between upper and welt. 'lhe shoe is finished or completed in the manner ordinai-ily practiced in the art.

The article of foot Wear resulting from the procedure specified presents the appearance of a Goodyear welt and is characterized by a permanent union of the welt and the upper to the insole in a manner which recludes the possibility of injury to the foot y reason of the use of metal staples. 'lhe welt is fastened to the upper not only by the staples, but, in addition thereto, by the seam G, which, however, does not touch the unbroken edge of said insole, whereby the welt is inseparably attached in position and the up per retains the desired shape in service of the shoe. A ain, the outsole can be renewed by ripping t e seam h to detaeh it from the welt, without disturbing the attachment of the upper and the Welt to the insole thus enabling the shoe to be re-soled without impairing the appearance of the upper.

Having thus fully described the invention, what l claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. ln an article of the class described, au insole provided with a channel producing a feather and the edge of which insole is unbroken and continuous, an u per, and a welt, said upper and the Welt eing attached to the feather of said insole and said upper and the Welt being stitched by a seam positioned exteriorly to the continuous edge of said insole.

2. ln an article of the class described, an insole provided with a channel producing a feather and the edge of which insole is unbroken and continuous, an upper, a welt in lapping relation to the edge of the upper, a 'row of' fasteners securing the feather of the insole to the edge portion of the upper and to the welt, and a seam uniting the upper and the Welt on a line exterior to the continuous edge of the insole.

3. ln an article of the class described, an insole provided with a channel producing llO a feather and the edge of which insole is unbroken and continuous, an upper, 'the edge of which laps the feather, a Welt lapping the edge of said upper, staples for permanently fastening the feather to 'the upper and the welt, and a seam uniting the upper and the welt exteriorly tothe edge of said insole.

4. In an article of the class described, an insole provided with a channel and a feather, an upper, a welt, means uniting the welt and the upper to said feather and with the Welt protruding from the upper, a -seam uniting the upper and the welt on a line exterior to the edge of the insole, an outsole,

and a seam uniting the outsole and the we1t.

5. In the art of making shoes, the process which consists in imposing on a last an insole provided with a channel and a feather, lasting lan upper, attaching a welt to the edge portion of said upper and to the sole provided with a channel and a feather,

lasting an upper, stapling a welt to said upper and the feather, and stitching the ulpper and the welt on a line exterior to t e edge of the insole.

7 In the art of making shoes, the recess which consists in imposing on a. ast an insole provided with a. channel and a feather, lasting an upper, attaching a welt to the edge portion of said upper and to the feather, dislodging the last from the upper, stitching'the upper and the welt exteriorly of the edge of the insole, and stitching an outsole to the welt.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name hereto this 4th day of March, 1924.

WILLIAM HARRY GOODYEAR. 

